Kimono Explained #7 - Men's Kimono

Welcome back to our blog series - Kimono Explained!

This month, we’re turning our focus to men’s kimono. While women’s kimono often receive more attention for their colour and variety, men’s kimono has its own quiet beauty, rooted in tradition and subtle design.

Although kimono is no longer everyday wear for most people in Japan, it continues to be worn for important milestones and formal occasions such as coming-of-age ceremonies, graduations, and weddings. One style that remains especially familiar is yukata, the most casual form of kimono, which is still widely worn by both men and women at summer festivals.

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at what makes men’s kimono unique, how formality works, and how you can elevate your kimono outfit with subtle patterns and accessories.

 

What’s Different from Women’s Kimono?

At first glance, men’s kimono may appear much simpler than women’s. Colours tend to be darker and more muted - think navy, indigo, charcoal, or brown, and patterns are usually small-scale or understated.

One of the most noticeable differences is the sleeve shape. Men’s kimono have shorter sleeves, making them more practical and reserved in appearance. Unlike women’s kimono, there is no equivalent to furisode with long, flowing sleeves.

Men’s kimono is also often worn as a coordinated set. A typical outfit includes a kimono (nagagi) and haori (jacket), styled with minimal accessories such as a folding fan, a small pouch, and haori-himo, the decorative cords used to fasten the haori at the front.

 

(↑Yukata on left, Usumono and Haori on right)

 

Types of Men’s Kimono by Season

Just like women’s kimono, men’s kimono changes with the seasons:

• Yukata (浴衣): Unlined cotton kimono worn in summer
• Hitoe (単衣): Unlined kimono for spring and autumn
• Awase (袷): Lined kimono worn in autumn, winter, and spring
• Usumono (薄物): Lightweight, sheer kimono for summer
• Hakama (袴): Pleated trousers worn for formal and semi-formal occasions

Seasonality is an important part of kimono culture, and wearing the appropriate type shows both awareness and respect for tradition.

 

(↑Yukata)

 

Formality in Men’s Kimono

Men’s kimono formality is determined by a few key elements:
whether a haori or hakama is worn, the presence and number of family crests (kamon), and colour.

Casual - Kinagashi Style （着流し）

The most relaxed style consists of a kimono and obi only, without hakama. A haori can be worn in cooler seasons. This is known as kinagashi.

• No family crests
• Includes yukata, hitoe, and usumono

(↑Wayo-secchu (和洋折衷) styling: explained in the end of the article)

Semi-Formal - Coloured Montsuki with Hakama (色紋付袴)

Iromontsuki hakama refers to a coloured kimono (not black) worn with hakama and family crests.

• One or three crests indicate semi-formal wear
• Allows more freedom with colour while remaining appropriate for gatherings and celebrations
• A five-crest version is considered equal in formality to black formal wear

 

Formal - Black Montsuki Hakama（黒紋付袴）

The most formal attire for men is the black montsuki haori-hakama set.

• Black kimono, haori, and hakama
• Five family crests 
• Traditionally paired with Sendai-hira striped hakama（仙台平袴）
• Worn by grooms, fathers of the bride or groom, and hosts of formal ceremonies

 

During the Meiji period, black was officially established as the colour of formal wear. These garments are typically made of silk, and white tabi socks and white haori-himo are standard. 

One interesting aspect of men’s kimono is its flexibility. Even a simple, solid-coloured kimono can be dressed up by adding a haori with a family crest, allowing the wearer to adjust formality depending on the occasion.

For tea ceremonies, the general rule is a one-crest kimono worn with hakama, without a haori.

 

(↑Hakama)

 

Popular Patterns in Men’s Kimono

• Solid colours (無地)
• Edo komon (江戸小紋) : fine repeat patterns such as sharkskin (same), checks (kakudōshi), stripes (man-suji), and hail (arare)
• Tortoiseshell (亀甲) : a symbol of longevity
• Ichimatsu check : made popular in the Edo period by kabuki actor Sanogawa Ichimatsu
• Pictographic or symbolic motifs

 

(↑Shuriken pattern on left)

Fabrics Commonly Used for Men’s Kimono

Men’s kimono is made from a wide range of materials, depending on season, formality, and lifestyle:

• Silk (正絹)

  - Tsumugi (紬) : more casual

  - Omeshi (お召) : more formal
• Wool
• Cotton
• Denim (cotton) - increasingly popular in recent years
• Hemp
• Polyester - increasingly popular in recent years as it’s often machine-washable

 

What You Need to Wear a Men’s Kimono

A complete men’s kimono outfit includes:

• Nagajuban (長襦袢) : undergarment worn beneath the kimono
• Han-eri (半衿) : detachable collar for the nagajuban
• Koshi-himo (腰紐) : ties used for dressing
• Eri-shin (衿芯) : collar insert to keep the neckline neat
• Kimono / Nagagi (長着)
• Haori (羽織)
• Obi (帯) - Kaku-obi: structured and more formal

                         - Heko-obi: soft and more casual 

• Haori-himo (羽織紐)
• Tabi (足袋)
• Zōri or Geta : sandals

 

(↑ Kinagashi style with haori)

(↑Simple obi for yukata and kinagashi)

 

Men’s kimono, like women’s, can be worn for many different occasions, but its charm often lies in what’s not immediately noticeable. The colours are calmer and the patterns more restrained, yet that simplicity leaves room for personal expression through small details: the colour of a nagajuban and small accessories, or the balance between kimono, haori, and hakama.

 

(↑Lining of haori)

 

Today, men’s kimono continues to evolve alongside modern life. New materials like denim make kimono feel more approachable, while traditional styles remain an important part of ceremonies and celebrations.  Wayo Secchu (和洋折衷) refers to the blending of Japanese and western styles, combining traditional items like kimonos with modern accessories such as button-up shirts, boots, and hats. This styling gained its popularity in the Meiji period, when the western style clothing was introduced. This is one of my favourite way to style my kimonos!

 If you’ve ever been curious about trying kimono yourself, starting with a yukata is an easy and enjoyable first step as it’s comfortable, accessible, and there are many colours and patterns to choose from. 

Thank you for tuning in for this month’s Kimono Explained! I hope this article helped you discover something new, and that it sparks your curiosity to keep exploring the many layers of kimono culture with me :)

Talk soon!

Maki   x