Kimono Explained #1 - Types of Kimono

Welcome to the new series where I talk about kimono in depth! Each month we will cover different topics about kimono, let's start with some basics :)

Did you know that the word "kimono" simply means "a thing to wear"?

Kimono = 着物

In Japanese each Kanji has different meanings. In this case, "着(ki)" means "wear", and "物(mono)" means "thing". Kimono was called kimono (a thing to wear) because it was simply their everyday clothes. The history of kimono we know now dates back to 794, the Heian period. But this is a story for another time!

You may have seen different types of kimono, some with long sleeves that almost touch the ground, some with patterns all over the kimono, or some with no patterns at all. Interestingly, your marital status also comes into effect when choosing which type of kimono to wear...whether you like it or not... The culture of kimono has slightly changed over its long history, and there have been many trends just like we have fashion trends in modern days.

In this article, we will look at different types of women's kimono depending on the occasion, along with some photos of kimono I own(ed) and myself :) - let's start with the casual ones!

- Casual Kimono -

There are 2 types of kimono that are for casual occasions, "Komon (小紋)" and "Yukata (浴衣)".

1. Komon (小紋)

"小" = small, "紋" = pattern

This is one of the most common types of kimono worn to this day. Komon kimono has repeated patterns throughout the kimono. The material is typically silk, but in the modern world, polyester has emerged as it requires less effort to clean. This type of kimono is fully lined, and worn with undergarments which is visible around collar and sleeves.

*Polyester kimono is often advertised as "easy to handle, machine-washable kimono"....unfortunately. ( you may know, we don't like plastics here)

Despite the beautiful patterns and craftsmanship, it is considered traditionally taboo to wear Komon at formal occasions such as weddings, funerals, and other official events. Although there are some subcategories of Komon that you can elevate to semi-formal kimono. For example, "Edo-Komon (江戸小紋)" is strictly silk Komon kimono that originated in Edo, modern Tokyo. These kimono have smaller, subtle patterns, and you can wear them at semi-formal events by adding crests. 

2. Yukata (浴衣）

This is a summer kimono made of cotton. Unlike any other type of kimono, Yukata doesn't require undergarments or Tabi - Japanese traditional socks. Obi - Japanese traditional belt is tied in simpler ways, making this style of kimono more approachable and comfortable. Yukata is the most popular kimono amongst many Japanese people, especially for Matsuri - summer festivals and Ryokan - traditional accommodations.

I love that this culture is still very much alive, and Yukata is one of my favourite kimono to wear! Also if you are interested in getting your first kimono or just trying one, Yukata is definitely the perfect entry-level kimono!

*If you look closely at the first picture of this post, you can see the girl on left is wearing 2 layers of kimono - white undergarment and the outer layer Komon, and the other girl is wearing something a little more light-weight and casual: Yukata.

- Semi-Formal Kimono -

There are 3 main types of kimono for semi-formal occasions. The design of these kimono is often more elegant compared to the casual kimono.

1. Homongi (訪問着) 

"訪問"= visit, "着" = wear

The most common type of kimono for semi-formal occasions is "Homongi (訪問着)", which literally means "Clothes for visits".

The pattern flows over the shoulder towards the back and across the sleeves and the bottom half of the kimono. They often come in elegant colours and patterns, making them suitable for ceremonies and semi-formal parties. This reference kimono above features a gorgeous pattern made with Shibori dyeing technique. The method of continuous pattern throughout the entire kimono is called "Eba (絵羽)".

This type of kimono can be worn by both married and unmarried women. A perfect option for tea ceremonies, flower (Ike-bana) ceremonies, and other cultural classes/events!

2. Iro-Muji (色無地)

"色” = colour, "無地" = plain

This type of kimono is in a single colour often without any patterns, representing the beauty of simplicity. It may feature some subtle patterns in similar colours, adding unique characters.

Iro-Muji is quite versatile as you can also make it semi-formal by adding 1 - 3 crests. 

The reference kimono above is unlined, and this is called "Hitome (単衣)" which means "one layer". This sheer kimono fits in the category of Iro-Muji, as it is in one colour - navy, with the pattern of bamboo in the same colour. Hitoe kimono is often worn from early summer to early autumn due to its light-weight fabric, however sheer kimono is only worn in the middle of summer - July and August in Japan. 

3. Tsukesage (付け下げ)

This type of kimono goes in between Komon (小紋) and Homongi (訪問着), often worn for casual / semi-formal events. You can also add crests to this one to make it more suitable for semi-formal occasions such as ceremonies and celebrations.  

The design is quite similar to Homongi , however the most noticeable difference is the placement of the patterns. The patterns on Homongi flow across the kimono using the Eba technique, as to the patterns on Tsukesage(付け下げ) are not continuous, often featuring individual patterns on sleeves, shoulders, and near hem. 

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Okay, that's a lot of information...I hope you are not overwhelmed! There are some small categories or types that are not as known, but I'll save those for another time :) Let's move onto the last topic of the day, formal kimonos! 

- Formal Kimono -

1. Furisode (振袖)

"振" = swing, "袖" = sleeves

You may have seen some young Japanese women wearing this type of kimono, as this is the "national uniform" for the coming of age ceremony! These kimono have the most extravagant designs, making them perfect for big celebrations. It is also common for unmarried women to wear at weddings as guests.

The well known feature of this kind is the sleeves. As you can tell by the name, they are so long that you can swing around and play with them! Furisode (振袖) is the most formal kimono for unmarried women. Traditionally, young women (or her family) purchase her own Furisode (振袖) and often cut off the sleeves once they're married so they can wear it on a daily basis. This is why many families in Japan have Furisode (振袖) that have been inherited for many generations.

For my coming of age ceremony, I chose between my grandmother's and aunt's as my mum had already cut off the sleeves when she got married. But around this time I created my own tradition to wear the kimono I inherited from my family during the new years, so I get to appreciate and embrace my culture ♡

2. Tomesode (留袖)

Tomesode (留袖) is the most formal kimono for married women, but only when it's in black, and has 5 crests. This type of kimono come in many different colours and the continuous pattern (Eba) is on the bottom half of the kimono. However the colour and the number of crests are very important when selecting the right one. 

Iro-Tomesode (色留袖)

色 = colour. This category exclude the ones in black.

Kuro-Tomesode (黒留袖)

黒 = black. 

This is the most formal kimono for married women, often worn by the parents at weddings, when the guests (married or unmarried) wear Iro-Tomesode (色留袖) or Furisode (振袖). The kimono itself is in black, with sophisticated pattern on the bottom half of the kimono. Total of 5 crests are placed to be the most formal, and with 3 crests it's considered to be less formal. 

- Other Types of Kimono -

There are some other types of kimono for special occasions such as funerals and  weddings. The style of kimono for Geiko (芸妓) and Maiko (舞妓) is also different from the ones you usually see.

You may have guessed that the kimono for funerals is in all black, and this is called Mohuku-Kimono (喪服着物). This kind is in all black including the patterns, as opposed to Kuro-Tomesode (黒留袖), which have colourful, luxurious patterns.

For weddings, there are 3 types of kimono. The most well known one is perhaps in all white, this is called Shiromuku (白無垢). This might sound a little old-fashioned, but Shiromuku (白無垢) means "pure white" and symbolises the purity and new beginning. The colour white also means that the bride will take on the other colour of the grooms or accept the values and ideas of the grooms' families.

The other kinds of bridal kimono are called Iro-Uchikake (色打ち掛け) and Hiki-Furisode 引き振袖). These often come in various colours and patterns, and the popular colours for Iro-Uchikake (色打ち掛け) are red and gold. 

In Japan, we have many traditional events where people wear specific style of kimono. For example, Shichi-Go-San (七五三) is a tradition for kids at the age of 3, 5, and 7 to go visit a shrine to celebrate the growth and well being of the children. Another example of a special celebration is graduation ceremony for university/college, when the graduates wear Hakama (袴) over kimono. There are many more occasions for specific styles of kimono, perhaps I'll talk more about them in the near future in this series!

Thank you for tuning in! I hope you learnt something new today! If you have any requests of topics for me to cover in the future, feel free to let me know via email or Instagram :)

Talk soon x

Maki