Kimono Explained #6 - Maiko & Geiko: Their Kimono and Traditions

Welcome back to our blog series – Kimono Explained!

For our November article, we’re taking a closer look at two of the most symbolic figures in Japanese kimono culture: Maiko-san and Geiko-san.

These two are some of the most recognisable figures representing Japanese culture around the world. Yet despite their popularity, there’s still so much that’s not well known - or often misunderstood. Maiko and Geiko play an important role in preserving kimono culture, honouring seasonal motifs, traditional techniques, and styles that have been passed down for generations. With this article, I hope to shed light on the beauty and care they bring to maintaining these traditions, and perhaps help you learn something new along the way!

 

(Maiko-san in Kyoto)

Who are Maiko (舞妓) and Geiko (芸妓)?

Maiko are apprentice Geiko, while Geiko are the fully trained, professional entertainers of Kyoto. Maiko are typically between 15 and 20 years old and still in training, whereas Geiko are experienced performers who have mastered traditional arts such as dance, and music.

Because Maiko are still students, they don’t earn a salary and instead live in shared accommodations with strict rules - no fast food, convenience stores, or family restaurants - to help preserve traditional values. Geiko, on the other hand, are independent professionals who can dress and go out freely.

Visually, the difference is striking:

• Maiko wear vibrant, elaborate attire with long sleeves, a flowing obi, and distinct hairstyles and makeup.
  
  
• Geiko wear more refined, subtle kimono - often black - with shorter sleeves and simpler accessories.
  
  

We’ll explore these differences in more detail below.

(Maiko-san on the right, Geiko-san on the left)

 

Geiko vs Geisha

In Kyoto, professional entertainers are called Geiko (芸妓) and their apprentices are Maiko (舞妓).
In Tokyo, the professionals are known as Geisha (芸者) and their apprentices are called Hangyoku (半玉).

Kimono culture spans over 1,300 years, and traditions vary across regions. Kyoto and Tokyo differ in many cultural aspects, including the naming of their entertainers.

*This article focuses more on Kyoto’s Maiko/Geiko culture.

Maiko’s Attire

Maiko are known for their vibrant, colourful appearance - but every detail follows a tradition.

Their kimono is called Naga-furisode, featuring the longest sleeves and often lavish designs. Their obi is tied in the Darari-obi style, which drapes dramatically down the back. Both kimono and accessories change with the seasons - lighter materials for summer, richer ones for winter, and motifs reflecting seasonal nature.

Popular seasonal patterns include:
Spring: cherry blossom, wisteria, peony, iris
Summer: hydrangea, morning glory, dianthus, waves
Autumn: momiji, susuki (silver grass), hagi (bush clover), rabbits
Winter: snow, camellia, chrysanthemum, shōchikubai (pine, bamboo, plum)

Because their Naga-furisode is especially long, Maiko often lift the left side of the hem as they walk - one of their signature movements. They also wear tall wooden geta called Okobo.

(The kimono on the left is for the cold seasons, stuffed with cotton on the hem.)

 

Hairstyles & Kanzashi

Maiko style their own hair into traditional shapes such as Wareshinobu or Ofuku, decorated with Kanzashi (hair ornaments) that reflect the time of year. Seasonal appreciation is deeply rooted in Japanese culture, and Maiko express this beautifully through their Kanzashi.

Creating these hairstyles is hard work, so Maiko usually keep the same style for an entire week, sleeping on a special pillow to maintain it.

Seasonal Kanzashi examples:

Winter (New Year): shōchikubai, crane, plum blossom
Late winter / early spring: rapeseed blossom, daffodil, peony
Spring: cherry blossom
Early summer: iris, wisteria
Rainy season: hydrangea, willow
Summer: Gion uchiwa (fan), goldfish, morning glory
Autumn: susuki, hagi, chrysanthemum, momiji
Winter (year-end): maneki (Kabuki sign), mochibana

 

(Maiko-san's casual attire on the right)

*Can you spot a Geiko-san in the left photo? :)

 

Geiko’s Attire

Compared to Maiko, Geiko dress in a more refined, understated way.

Geiko often wear black Kuro-tomesode or muted Iro-tomesode, paired with a gold obi. Their look is much closer to that of everyday formal kimono wear. Their sleeves are shorter than those of Maiko, and their obi is tied in simpler styles, such as the widely used Otaiko knot. Kuro-tomesode typically feature a continuous pattern (Eba-moyō) along the hem, often depicting seasonal or traditional themes.

 

 

Hairstyles

While their hairstyles may look similar from afar, the key difference is that Geiko wear wigs. The classic Geiko hairstyle, Shimada, requires very long natural hair, so wigs are used for practicality. Outside of work, Geiko are free to have modern hairstyles and dress casually.

As independent professionals, Geiko have much more personal freedom, and there’s no age limit. In fact, one of Kyoto’s Geiko houses was home to a 85-yea-old Geiko who was still active and highly respected (stated in the interview by the Kyoto Kagai official, 3 years ago).

 

 

Thank you for joining me on Kimono Explained!

Maiko-san and Geiko-san continue to embody the beauty, discipline, and elegance of Kyoto’s traditional arts. Their kimono, hairstyles, and seasonal expressions are more than just fashion - they are living reflections of centuries-old culture carried forward with dedication and pride. 

I hope this article helped you enjoy the charming details that make their world so fascinating. If you’re loving this Kimono Explained series, stay tuned for next month’s edition! 

 

Talk soon,

Maki